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Guo Pei: Embroidery, Craft, and the Language of Fashion
Guo Pei: Embroidery, Craft, and the Language of Fashion
4:53
Video Transcript

GUO PEI: (Mandarin) How does an artist find inspiration? From your life, from your approach to life, passion for life, all of life’s experiences.

I was born and raised in Beijing. I studied in Beijing. When I was little, my maternal grandma always told me that in her youth, she could embroider butterflies and flowers onto clothes. What she told me became a goal I pursued in my career something I aimed to achieve. I began studying fashion design in 1982. It’s been 40 years. I’m a designer who’s particularly fond of traditional craft. Many say Guo Pei’s embroidery is top-notch. There’s no fast lane in craftsmanship. There are no shortcuts. Can it be mastered overnight? No. It has to accumulate over the course of your life and time. Like a painter’s mastery of paints, a musician’s mastery of notes. For me, my mastery of garment-making is no different from any artist’s mastery of their art. Craftsmanship is crucial. Without it, you can’t even express your ideas.

I founded Rose Studio in 1997. Having a company means I can hire embroiderers to put the patterns I want onto garments. I started out with one or two, then eight or 10, then a hundred. The most we had was close to 300. In the detail of my works, you can see our exploration of traditional culture and commitment to it, as well as our efforts to uphold the legacy allowing it to shine and foster creativity.

Many people have noted my works’ embodiment of Eastern and Western cultures. Many are curious. How do you integrate Eastern and Western cultures? Eastern culture is like my blood. It runs in me. It’s like my language. I often use it in my patterns, our palettes. It’s a manifestation of our traditional culture. Western culture sparks my curiosity. It attracts me, charms me into exploring it, into trying to understand it. I use my language to narrate what I’ve seen in the West. Hence, the integration happens naturally. I never make clear distinctions between the two.

Drawings offer a direction. But the creative use of materials in the process, the craftsmanship you have to make every detail speak for itself, then you have to bring all the details together in harmony and perfection. It requires decades of experience. I think haute couture is also contemporary art. It’s one manifestation of contemporary art. Contemporary art cannot be divorced from the times. Haute couture is a product of its time an artistic expression. As a fashion designer, I naturally hope to engage in dialogue with the world through my works to have mutual exchange with more people. The collections I created have names that call to mind musings on life enlightenments. I hope the details in my work will make people think. My career has spanned almost 40 years, I believe these works will bring the memories of contemporary humanity into the future.

Couture artist Guo Pei fuses tradition and innovation, weaving storytelling into couture.

Guo Pei’s work exists at the intersection of fashion and cultural memory. Trained in Beijing and influenced by Chinese embroidery traditions and European haute couture, Guo approaches garment-making as an artistic and technical pursuit, a lifelong mastery of craftsmanship, a means of exchange, and an engagement in cultural and creative discourse.

As a fashion designer, I naturally hope to engage in dialogue with the world through my works—to have mutual exchange with more people.

Guo Pei

‘There’s no fast lane in craftsmanship,’ reflects Guo. ‘There are no shortcuts. Can it be mastered overnight? No. It has to accumulate over the course of your life and time.’ Guo’s dedication to technique reveals itself in the intricate artistry of her designs , whether in a gown woven from bamboo or silhouettes that weave together tradition and reinvention. For Guo, craftsmanship is not just a method but a philosophy, one she compares to a painter’s mastery of pigments or a musician’s command of notes. Her work celebrates transformation, intertwining historical motifs and artistic imagination into something personal and transcendent.

Two mannequins stand dramatically atop plinths, wearing intricately designed gowns, one blue, the other yellow, with elaborate detailing evoking a sense of regal grandeur. A striking blue backdrop features artwork on the wall, with a porcelain vase displayed in a case.

Guo Pei transforms cultural heritage into couture. The porcelain-inspired gown echoes the elegance of blue-and-white ceramics, while the imperial yellow robe, famously worn by Rihanna at the 2015 Met Gala, embodies regal grandeur. Installation view of Guo Pei: Fashioning Imagination, 2024. Photo: Dan Leung, M+, Hong Kong

Rendered on a grand sculptural scale, her creations blur the line between fashion and art, creating a commanding presence both on and beyond the runway. She sees couture as a means of communication, an exploration of history and technique that extends beyond clothing, where garments can contribute to conversations about the role of fashion in visual culture, positioning couture not just as adornment but as a medium for artistic expression.

Video Credits

Produced by

M+

Production

Production Avenue Limited

Director

Kevin Tse

Cameraman

Yang Xiao, Samuel Siu

Camera Assistant

Zhao Peng

Gaffer

Teng Li

DIT

Pengfei Hu

On-set Production Manager

Alice Zhang, Simon Sun

Editor

Chandler Hung、Cheryl Ko

Colourist

Shu Nan

M+ Curatorial Research

Ikko Yokoyama, Wen Bi, Mankit Lai

M+ Producer

Mimi Cheung, Ling Law

Subtitle Translation

Piera Chen

M+ Text and Subtitle Editing

LW Lam, Amy Leung

Special Thanks

Guo Pei, Rose Studio, Sewon Barrera, Starry Lau

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